🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary honour.